We're also the source for two other fine brands of plants: Jeepers Creepers® "Down Low and Fun to Grow" groundcovers and Rock Stars® "Cool Plants for Rock Gardens".

It's time to let our readers know that I am now officially part-time with Valleybrook Gardens, a decision that our owner John Schroeder and myself reached not too long ago. The reason is that my partner Alan and I have just started a brand-new shop in our home here in Jordan Village, outside of St Catharines, ON. We are selling spinning wheels, spinning fibres of all kinds as well as my own line of hand-dyed yarns under the brand name of DYEGUY™. Our shop is called, appropriately, The Fibre Garden. Some of the yarns are pictured above, or you are most welcome to view what we're up to over on my Flickr Page.

I will still be continuing with newsletters and very much behind-the-scenes here, writing descriptions for perennials which you will find on our plant tags as well as on our websites. Always I will have a passion for helping others to become better gardeners, so I am not bidding farewell at all, simply beginning a whole new direction with another passion. Change is sometimes scary but often a good thing!

The many different garden hybrids were mostly developed in England and Germany fifty years ago or more. A few newer selections have also come along in recent years. Pictured here is Anemone × hybrida Queen Charlotte, a German selection properly known as 'Königin Charlotte'.

Most varieties grow in the height range of 75 to 90cm (2.5 to 3 feet) with some ranging all the way up to 120cm (4 feet) or more in an ideal site. The perfect setting is a rich, moisture-retentive soil in a full sun location. Part-day sun suits them fairly well, as does morning or afternoon shade with full sun at other times. They prefer the soil to be on the moist side rather than dry. Underneath large and thirsty trees is about the worst place to plant these and their performance will reflect their unhappiness.

The colour range is surprisingly limited, considering the popularity: basically Japanese Anemone come in white and shades of pink, from soft pink through to deep dark rose-pink but no true red exists as yet. Flower petals may be in one layer (single), with some extra petals (semi-double) or a completely full and blousy bloom with many extra petals, considered a full double.

Garden centres won't likely have a good selection of Japanese Anemone before midsummer, since these plants are slow to wake up in pots in the spring. Often you can purchase them in bloom by mid August or so, which is helpful when figuring out where to place them.

Timing for planting is somewhat important, particularly in Zone 5 where they are almost at their hardiness limit. Even in warmer zones we advise planting Japanese Anemone six weeks or more before the ground freezes hard. That's a good date to know, and one that your local nurseries and garden centres should be able to provide. This amount of time allows them to develop a good root system before winter, but even still a layer of mulch for the first winter is a good idea. Wait until the soil freezes hard, then apply about 12 inches of organic material such as straw, pulled-up annuals or a rose collar filled with compost or soil. In spring, remove this about the time the tulips emerge to prevent smothering any new growth as it comes up.

You can ask a perennial gardening question of your own by clicking the "Ask an Expert" link on the top of this newsletter. Due to time constraints, please — no questions on flowering shrubs, trees, evergreens, lawns, hydrangeas, roses, etc.

QUESTION: "I planted a Purple Fountain Grass and it's amazing. I was told that it's an annual. How will it do over the winter? Can I bring some inside in a pot (I have a sun room)? If not, what do I do with it?" Susan — Port Colborne, Ontario

ANSWER: What you were told is correct: in your Zone 6 climate, Purple Fountain Grass does not stand a chance of surviving the winter outdoors. It will sometimes survive in Zones 8 and higher, but even then it may come back half alive in the spring unless the location is particularly well-drained.

Overwintering this grass indoors is hit and miss. Some gardeners will pot them up before hard frost, cut them back to about 6 inches and stick them in a dark cold room or basement. Watering them once in awhile is the key, enough to keep them moist but prevent them from actively growing in the dark. A basement window or a sun porch are a better bet but even then it's about 50/50 whether the plant survives the experience or dies before the spring. It doesn't hurt to try!

Here's the basics on what to do for winter:

• Do nothing:. If the plants you selected are bone-hardy to your gardening zone or even hardy to at least a zone or two colder, chances are pretty good most of the plants will survive if the container is reasonably large in size. Some gardeners don't really care if a few of the plants die, and they find the empty spots are handy places in the spring to change-up the display and try something new.
• Move the container: Consider moving it to a protected area in your garden, tucked at the base of a hedge or fence and out of the direct sun if possible. You could also move it to an unheated shed or garage. The time to do this is AFTER the soil in the container freezes hard, the idea being to keep it frozen for the winter. Containers might dry out in midwinter, so just scoop a shovel-full of snow on top every once in awhile, or water every month or so if you live in a snow-free area.
• Move to a heated garage or basement: If you've tried growing things that push your hardiness zone limits, then some extra heat is going to be needed for the perennial roots to survive. The ideal place is on the cool side but still above -5 deg C (23 deg F). Too warm a spot will have the plants actively growing, and that's not good either.
• Take the container apart: Simply remove all of the perennials in your planter and find homes for them somewhere out in the garden. Try to get them settled in at least four weeks before your ground freezes hard for the winter. In spring you could move some of them back or just do something completely different for the new season.

Though we did get some excellent entries, we didn't get very many of them and I'd like to revisit this as a contest topic. I figure some of you may have tried acetic acid for the first time this year, after our first contest deadline closed.

So... we will run the topic once again. If you've tried an acetic acid product please tell us how well it's worked or not worked. It can be regular vinegar (5%), pickling vinegar (6%) or one of the new regulated stronger formulations being sold for weed control. We'd also like to know, especially with the stronger products, whether you have experienced any problems from handling or breathing them.

We will draw from our initial June entries for three winners, and do a SECOND DRAW for three more winners, and each will receive a signed copy of the Perennial Gardening Guide. Winners will be announced in the October newsletter, along with a sampling of your experiences.

Our best-selling book, the Perennial Gardening Guide (4th edition, March 2003) is a handy reference used by gardeners across North America — written by John Valleau, horticulturist for Heritage Perennials®. Available at your local Heritage Perennials® Dealer.